Surfing Lessons - #2

The surf was great today. Well, it was huge and a little scary, but I'm weird and huge and scary is sorta to my liking. Anyway, I'm totally surfed-out right now from catching some of the biggest waves of the winter so far. But yesterday...

Yesterday was one of those days where it looked like everything was lined-up to give us super fun surf. Camille and I got up, did our morning breakfast thing, and drove to the beach to check it. The last few days before had been going off (one of them made it into this blog), and we were stoked for the possibility of another great session. We got to the beach and the tide was still really high. The swell was there, the wind was offshore, but there was just too much water and the waves were mushy and barely breaking. No problem, we decided to just go home and get some chores done and come back in a few hours when the tide would be lower.

Camille had to work in the evening, so later on, I drove back to the beach to check it and tell her if she should come for a quick session before work or just chill. I got there and things were looking better. There were several people out in the water and it looked like they were getting some good waves. Not perfect, certainly not as good as the past few days, but definitely do-able. I called Camille and told her that I would probably paddle-out and where I would be. She decided that she really didn't have enough time before work and told me to have fun.

Now began a ritual that many surfers know well. I call it the 'Let's just check it for a couple more minutes' syndrome. It happens when things aren't perfect, but there are some waves to catch. Where I live, there are about four surf spots visible from the parking lot, so part of this ritual often includes hem-hawing about where the best place to paddle-out would be. Well, my 'couple more minutes' quickly turned into about 45 minutes, during which time I watched several surfers get several decent waves. Not epic, but fun nonetheless. I finally made up my mind to put on my wetsuit and head out.

Wouldn't you know it. As soon as I got out of my SUV, opened the back door and reached for my wetsuit, the weather turned. On the Oregon Coast, we like to say that if you don't like the weather, wait 10 minutes. Too true. Suddenly, the rain was coming down in sheets and the wind picked up and switched direction about 140-degrees so that it was blowing directly west, right onshore. Hard. That destroys the surf. If I had just paddled out when I drove up and saw a few decent waves, I could have gotten at least an hour of surf in before the weather ruined it.

As I drove home, dry and bummed, a thought occurred to me. How many times in my life have I waited for the 'perfect setup' do to something that I knew I should just do now? Whether that 'something' is something hard or easy, something uncomfortable or comforting, something I'm glad to do or something I know I'll do begrudgingly - it makes no difference. How many good opportunities have passed me by because I was waiting for the 'perfect moment'? Was I being a little too picky yesterday as a surfer? Yes. Am I bummed that my finicky attitude cost me a surf session? You bet! What other, infinitely more important things may I have missed simply because I told myself that later would be better?

How about you? Is there someone you need to say 'I love you' to? Someone with whom you need to make amends? Is there a burden on your heart for something and you have been telling yourself that you will get to it tomorrow? All I missed out on yesterday was about an hour or so of surfing. But how many really important things in life have slipped through my fingers because I didn't think that the 'time was right' for them? I don't want to miss any more surf sessions. I don't want to neglect any more friendships. I don't want to keep others upset with me. I don't want anyone else to wonder if they are loved or cared about. I don't want to keep God waiting to do more great stuff in my life.

The 'perfect time' is now, friends. Clear the slate. If you die tomorrow, will you leave anyone 'hanging'? I'll start - I love you. I mean it from the bottom of my heart. If you are reading this, then I promise you that there is at least one person in this world who loves you. Me. If you think that I may be the only one who loves you, please leave a comment and I will personally get in touch with you and introduce you to a whole bunch of people who love you as well. Life is short. Like my father says - let's keep short accounts.